Cappadocia at sunrise
Hundreds of balloons over volcanic valleys and cave hotels carved into soft rock.
Country book · Europe
Two continents, one everyday life
Türkiye is where Europe and Asia share the same breakfast table. This book is the country as it actually is today — the people, the truths, the myths, the food and the cities travellers keep coming back to.
Myths
Actually true
Hospitality is real, not a brochure line
Being invited in for tea by someone you just met is completely normal. Refusing three times and then accepting is part of the choreography.
Istanbul really does sit on two continents
It is the only major city in the world spread across Europe and Asia — people commute between continents by ferry every morning.
Cats rule the streets
Street cats and dogs are fed, vaccinated and looked after by whole neighbourhoods. They are treated as residents, not strays.
Breakfast is an event
A Turkish kahvaltı can be twenty small plates and three hours long. Sunday mornings are planned around it.
Commonly believed, wrong
"Turkey is a desert"
It has snow-covered mountains, Black Sea rainforests, alpine lakes and ski resorts. Eastern Türkiye regularly hits −30°C in winter.
"Everyone rides camels"
Camels are a tourist photo prop. The country has high-speed trains, a huge domestic airline network and metros in most big cities.
"Turkish coffee is the everyday drink"
Tea (çay) is what people actually drink all day — Türkiye has one of the highest tea consumptions per person in the world.
"It's all one culture"
Aegean, Black Sea, Central Anatolian and Southeastern life differ in food, music, dialect and pace almost like separate countries.
Highlights
Hundreds of balloons over volcanic valleys and cave hotels carved into soft rock.
Kaş, Fethiye, Bodrum — pine forests running straight into impossibly clear water.
Ephesus, Göbeklitepe, Pergamon, Aphrodisias — layers of civilisation, often with no crowds.
Thermal water stepping down chalk-white travertine pools next to a Roman spa town.
Culture
The bathhouse and the tea garden are the country's two social living rooms.
Mimar Sinan's mosques, tiled madrasas and caravanserais on the old Silk Road.
İznik tiles, Hereke carpets and hat sanatı — crafts still practised by hand.
Folk laments, Sufi ney, arabesk and the 70s Anatolian rock revival that the world rediscovered.
Food
Cheeses, olives, menemen, honey with clotted cream, endless tea.
Adana, Urfa, İskender, beyti — regional and each with its own ritual.
Small cold plates, fish, and a slow evening that is more conversation than dinner.
Gaziantep pistachio baklava and hot cheese künefe with clotted cream.
The street classics: sesame rings for the morning, fish sandwiches by the Bosphorus.
Thin, fast, shared — the country's answer to a slice on the way home.
Music
The megastar of Turkish pop — "Şımarık" turned into a worldwide hit.
The voice of the current generation of Turkish pop.
Anatolian folk-rock legend, sampled by hip-hop producers worldwide.
The queen of Turkish pop — the songwriter behind generations of Turkish singers.
Türkiye's rock queen, on stage since the 90s.
History
1881 — 1938
Founder of the Republic in 1923. Reformed the alphabet, law and education, and gave women the vote in 1934.
1884 — 1973
Second president; kept the country out of the Second World War and opened the door to multi-party politics.
1432 — 1481
Conqueror of Constantinople in 1453 at the age of 21, ending the Byzantine Empire and turning the city into Istanbul, the Ottoman capital.
1494 — 1566
Longest-reigning Ottoman sultan; the empire's legal, cultural and territorial peak.
Cities
Two continents, ferries, cats, the most visited city in Europe.
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The Mediterranean capital — beaches plus Roman ruins.
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Aegean, relaxed, seafront promenades and Ephesus nearby.
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The capital: museums, Anıtkabir and a serious food scene.
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White houses, bougainvillea and the country's summer nightlife.
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