Country book · Asia

Maldives

1,192 islands, most of them uninhabited

The Maldives is the world's lowest-lying nation, a scattering of coral atolls in the Indian Ocean where the overwater bungalow was essentially invented and the reef starts right off the beach. This book is the Maldives today — the people, the truths, the myths, the food and the atolls worth knowing.

Myths

What's true, what isn't

Actually true

It really is the world's lowest-lying country
The average elevation is about 1.5 metres above sea level, making the Maldives one of the nations most vulnerable to sea-level rise.
It's made up of nearly 1,200 coral islands
The Maldives spans 26 natural atolls, and only about 200 of its islands are inhabited.
It genuinely popularised the overwater bungalow resort model
The Maldives became one of the pioneers of overwater villa resorts starting in the 1970s, a format now copied worldwide.
Its reefs really are some of the richest marine ecosystems on Earth
Manta rays, whale sharks and over 2,000 species of fish are regularly seen on Maldivian house reefs just metres from shore.

Commonly believed, wrong

"The whole country is one big luxury resort"
Most Maldivians live on separate local inhabited islands with their own towns, mosques, shops and daily life, distinct from resort islands.
"It's only for honeymooners"
The country has a growing surf, diving and budget guesthouse scene aimed at solo travellers and backpackers, not just couples.
"Alcohol is freely available everywhere"
Alcohol is only permitted on resort islands, not on local inhabited islands, which follow Islamic dietary and social norms.
"It's a single flat sandbar with nothing to do but relax"
World-class diving, surf breaks, dolphin cruises and vibrant local island culture go well beyond sunbathing.

Highlights

The best of Maldives

Overwater villas and house reefs

Resorts built directly over lagoons with coral reef visible through glass floors.

World-class diving and snorkelling

Manta ray cleaning stations, whale sharks and vivid coral gardens close to shore.

Bioluminescent 'sea of stars' beaches

Certain islands, like Vaadhoo, see glowing blue plankton light up the shoreline at night.

Local island life

Inhabited islands like Maafushi offer an affordable, authentic look at Maldivian daily culture.

Culture

Cultural riches

Dhivehi language and Thaana script

A unique language written right-to-left in Thaana, found nowhere else in the world.

Bodu beru drumming

A traditional drum-and-dance performance that builds to an energetic climax, performed at celebrations.

Boat-building heritage

The traditional dhoni boat, still used for fishing and transport, is a symbol of Maldivian identity.

Islamic island life

Local islands follow Islamic customs closely, with mosque calls to prayer structuring daily rhythm.

Food

What to eat

Mas huni

Shredded smoked tuna mixed with coconut, onion and chilli, the classic Maldivian breakfast with flatbread.

Garudhiya

A clear, fragrant tuna broth served with rice, lime and chilli — the Maldivian comfort dish.

Hedhikaa

An assortment of savoury tea-time snacks like fish rolls and bajiya, served daily in local cafes.

Rihaakuru

A thick, salty tuna paste used as a base flavouring across Maldivian cooking, similar to a fish stock reduction.

Fihunu mas

Grilled reef fish marinated in chilli and spices, cooked over coconut husk fires on local islands.

History

Important people in history

Muhammad Amin Didi

1953

First president of the short-lived Maldivian republic and a modernising social reformer.

Maumoon Abdul Gayoom

1978–2008

Long-serving president who built the country's modern tourism industry.

Mohamed Nasheed

2008–2012

First democratically elected president and a global advocate for climate action on behalf of low-lying nations.

Cities