Country book · Middle East & Africa

Kenya

Where the safari as we know it began

Kenya invented the modern safari and still runs some of the greatest wildlife spectacles on Earth, from the wildebeest migration to Nairobi's own national park within sight of skyscrapers. This book is the real Kenya — the people, the truths, the myths, the food and the cities that make it.

Myths

What's true, what isn't

Actually true

It really does produce the world's best distance runners
The Rift Valley town of Iten, at 2,400m altitude, has produced a staggering share of world and Olympic marathon champions.
The wildebeest migration is one of nature's great spectacles
Over 1.5 million wildebeest cross the Mara River between Kenya and Tanzania each year in one of the largest land migrations on Earth.
Mobile money was pioneered here
M-Pesa launched in Kenya in 2007 and turned the country into a global leader in mobile banking years ahead of the West.
Nairobi has a national park inside the city
Nairobi National Park sits minutes from downtown skyscrapers, with lions, giraffes and rhinos visible against the city skyline.

Commonly believed, wrong

"Kenya is one giant savannah"
Kenya has snow-capped Mount Kenya, Indian Ocean beaches, the Great Rift Valley's lakes and dense highland forest.
"It's unsafe everywhere"
Nairobi's business districts, coastal resort towns and safari lodges see millions of safe visitors every year.
"The Maasai are the only culture in Kenya"
Kenya has over 40 ethnic groups, including the Kikuyu, Luo, Luhya and Kalenjin, each with distinct languages and traditions.
"Safaris are only for the wealthy"
Kenya has budget-friendly public campsites and mid-range lodges alongside its luxury tented camps.

Highlights

The best of Kenya

The Maasai Mara

Kenya's flagship reserve, home to the Great Migration and dense populations of big cats.

Mount Kenya

Africa's second-highest peak, with glaciers on the equator and multi-day trekking routes.

The Kenyan coast

Swahili coastal towns like Lamu and Malindi with coral reefs, dhows and centuries of trade history.

Lake Nakuru and the Rift Valley lakes

Soda lakes that turn pink with thousands of flamingos against volcanic escarpments.

Culture

Cultural riches

Maasai beadwork and dress

Vivid shuka cloth and intricate beaded jewellery, worn daily rather than for tourists.

Swahili coastal culture

A centuries-old blend of Bantu, Arab and Indian influence visible in Lamu's stone towns and Swahili language.

Benga and Kenyan music

Guitar-driven benga music from western Kenya shaped decades of East African pop.

Running culture in the Rift Valley

Training camps in Iten and Kaptagat are pilgrimage sites for athletes worldwide.

Food

What to eat

Nyama choma

Slow-grilled goat or beef, Kenya's essential weekend social dish, eaten with the hands.

Ugali

A firm maize-flour porridge that anchors most Kenyan meals, eaten with stews or vegetables.

Sukuma wiki

Collard greens sautéed with onion and tomato, the everyday vegetable side across the country.

Pilau

Spiced rice cooked with meat and whole spices, brought by centuries of Swahili coast trade.

Mandazi

Lightly sweet fried dough, the Kenyan answer to a doughnut, eaten with chai in the morning.

History

Important people in history

Jomo Kenyatta

1964–1978

Kenya's founding president after independence from Britain, a key figure of anti-colonial resistance.

Daniel arap Moi

1978–2002

Long-serving president who dominated Kenyan politics through the late 20th century.

Wangari Maathai

Nobel laureate, 2004

Environmentalist and Nobel Peace Prize winner who founded the Green Belt Movement.

Cities